I was hoping to have some film to show on this subject but since I'm crusty in my old film ways I don't have anything yet, you'll just have to look in Jojo's book. I was up on Friday morning for a spin on the Magic and found conditions to be good but a little spicy. The ice was starting to sublimate on the lower ice some but still provided enough of a base layer to ascend the upper portion of the climb. The ice is somehwat higher that usual stopping above the roof leaving the crack ice free as you move through the roof, easier conditions on the rock but somewhat more cerebreal climbing once on the ice.
Visiting Canadian Rob Owens jumped on Sunday late afternoon finding plenty of a challenge and providing a great show for those of us in the parking lot after the Barrel Ice fest. Rummor has it the peanut gallery was going to run up some bivy gear for Rob just in case he didn't finish before dark. Rob managed it fine style and was touched by the quality of climbing that Black Magic had to offer. Just reaffirming the need to jump on this one before it's gone. It's a Classic and you should get while you can, It may not be around for another five years!
Kristoffer Erickson :lol:
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Black Magic