Alex's Solo I & II

While making the trek up to Winter Dance on Monday (no, Pete and I didn't do it but we froze our friggin' sacks off though) I looked out from my goggles and balaclava long enough to see that the elusive routes called Alex's Solo I & II were in big. It might be more appropriate to call them Left and Right. I'll post a photo as soon as I develop the film (if it turned out in the early morning light and blowing snow). The right hand route looked WI 4ish on the left with a steeper pillar on the right. The Right-hand was not really visible around the corner but there was certainly enough ice to look like something was climbable. The approach looks long but for those of you that have already done everything else (read: Whit and Nate :D) they look totally worthy of a day. The slog up the gully might be deep with a number of avalanche pockets here and there. After finally seeing where they are, there might be alternatives to going directly up the gully but I can't tell for sure. One option contours across the gully from the rib below and left of Winter Dance but it's hard to tell if the sidehilling into the gully outweighs the slogging up the gully, at least the elevation gain would be easier. The other option traverses the cliffs from Feeding the Cat. Until I look at more photos, I can't tell if this second option gets you high enough to really make it worth while. While stumbling down from Winter Dance earlier on Friday, Pete and Tom found what I think is the best way to Winter Dance. Instead of braving the downfall and leeward snow in the gully then going up right to reach the rib, they went past the Grotto Falls trail & sign and slightly down the hill for a few hundred yards until it looked like the downfall petters out. Walking up and left back towards the rib currently works pretty well since the snow is thin, bushwacking is minimal, and once you get close to popping onto the rib you are on the windward side so the postholing is infrequent. Still a damn long ways up there though. Kansas Cornfield looked like it was still in. With this wind storm though, look out for avy conditions. BTW: Winter Dance is totally dry and currently brittle as hell. The ice is way climbable but it might be a crap shoot whether or not the start will fracture off or not - not a good idea for a fat bastard like me. Being much lighter and stronger, Pete T. made two brave and valiant stabs over the weekend. If the cold and wind continues, it may not last long. Pray for a few warm days up there. After finally experiencing it for myself, I can see why it is absolutely one of the great routes of the world. Awesome job for anyone that has gotten up the rig. Totally inspiring! Happy holidays! JoJo