Missoula Archives

With the snow flying it's time to get some bucks flying - for a good cause. I am doing a slide show Wednesday November 8th, 7:30 pm at Pipestone Mountaineering (129 West Front Street, Missoula) with all proceeds going to the Westcentral Montana Avalanche Foundation. The show will cover 7 expeditions to the Mount Logan (the highest point in Canada) area of the Yukon culminating in our 2005 ascent of "Some Kind of Monster" which is probably the longest ice climb in North America (recently featured in the latest American Alpine Journal). Hope to see you all there. Joe Josephson

Heard on the news that two climbers were rescued early this morning after being hit with ice around Missoula? Anyone have any more info?

Hoping to hear some good news for conditions, with the warmer temps. Wondering if it would be worth it this weekend.

Thompson falls is closed, all on private property, with lots o signs. A canoe might work but good luck the rivers quite frozen. Between plains and thompson falls off the highway to the right I climbed a seep, highly recomended and sunny exposure. You have to be kinda stealth about where u park. Have fun!

Went into Dynemo Flow yesterday. First pitch was mostly snice, but well protected with a few double length runners. Don't skip it. The rest of the climb was in decent shape, with ice ranging from thin, low angle smears, to fat pillars on the second and third pitches. The final pillar was moaning a little by the third climber, and the second major flow had a scary fracture line through the entire thing, but both were enjoyable. The major climb across the canyon, Foxberger Falls (I think?), was forming, but not in. It's a downhill approach, so go for it. Justin Boening

Bass Creek falls is almost ready for action. Made it up there around 4pm yesterday (12-9-05) and found a really nice formation. It's still a little thin and sketchy. The upper sections looked better than the lower, I think after another few days of below freezing temps it will be awesome! Pretty drippy and a fair amount of water still flowing behind the falls. Sorry no pics, the camera froze up. Great trail to hike out at night.

Went up Blodget canyon on Thurs (12-8-05) Swan Slabs and the unamed slabs look to be in, but mostly snow covered. Blodgett Falls is forming up very nicely, one could say fat even. First 60 feet or so apprx. 85-90 degrees, rest moderatley angled. Be sure to get up the ice before the sun peeks over the canyon, starts to drip somethin' fierce. Also left a 17 cm Omega Pacific screw apprx. 30' up from start, if anyone heads up there and wants to get it back to me call 544-4580 (Kent) if not . . . looks like you scored a screw. adios

I was wondering if anybody has been up to mission falls. If you have, how is the ice? Is the ice bridge in yet? Also I went up to Finley on friday the 25th. The ice is forming but needs more time. Thing in Between has a base going but not quite ready. Weedeater is barly even an ice sickle. Graineater could be climbed if you are in for some mixed and skechy early season ice. There is a few large ice formations forming in the daggers area. Basically the whole area needs more time for developement do to the inversion.

On the 19th, The Thing in Between was very fragile. Don't even bother if you're looking for a mellow day of top roping. The Grain Eater, however, looked spicy and, maybe, up for a go. Very little in the Daggers area, but the Grinch looks to be coming in nicely. In my opinion, more time seems needed for all routes; but, with the inversion, I doubt if the ice will last through this weather system. I'll bet that the ice starts forming over again in a few days; so, I wouln't hold it against anyone if they just went after it. P.S.

Went to Finley on Friday and TR'd off a bush a 30 foot mixed spit to the left of Grain Eater and just right of some overhanging bolted route. It was wet and hardly there. It seems cold in Missoula, but its a weather inversion and the sun was out in Finley. We were careful not to destroy what has struggled to form so far. The Grain Eater is shaping up nicely and some wild man could give it a go...not me, not yet. I'm sure the upper walls of mission are blooming nicely. Has any one been there and what is this I hear about a log somewhere on the drive?