New Routes Archive

All of the following climbs are visible and access able from the roads surrounding Plains.  Some Private property access issues, but if you stop and ask folks are pretty amiable.  Only really issue is if the temperature will allow the climbs to form and stick around.  Seems like they are all doable for a week or two at a time throughout an average season, but when exactly that week might be is hard to say.

Above Paradise School  WI3 M2 Jeremy Blyth and Tom Collins Jan 2011

Two small blobs of ice lead to a pea pod corner that spits you out left on face cobbles. Keep going up to ledge and traverse left as you climb up to a washed out gully leading to a tree.

Bourbon Tan M8+ 

FA Craig Pope, Marko Pujic 55m

Location: 250 ft right of Hangover.  

Start in the Overhanging Bombay chimney to thin smear on left side of chimney.  Climb through 4 bolts on the roof, to thin ice and natural gear, (25m).  Look for a bolted anchor/rap station to the right before starting the last 30 m to slings on a small, but solid tree.  Rappel to Anchors on right, (full 30 m rap), then rappel the chimney. 

new route on the dogstooth 5.9 III

check it out at yerbaman.blogspot.com

Also Known As: Inglorious Bastards (USA) (working title) ... Inglorious Basterds makes no apologies, asks for no forgiveness, it's a no holds barred assault ...

This is the center line of the Bingo World Cave that Pete Tapley and I bolted in December of 07.

Had a great time during the Ice Fest despite the temps and snow conditions, thanks to all the organizers who persevered through the difficult circumstances.  During one of my days out, myself (Matt Steen), BrumBrown (Kevin Brumbach), and Nate Robinson went up to Upper Flanders to get Nate out on his first ice.

heads up on cold forged steel above Ainger Lake in the Northern Bridgers!! Nesting Peregrine falcons will take your eyes!!! Please avoid climbing this route and maybe adjecent ones during july15-aug31 not just to respect the nesting birds(which are a vital part of our ecosystem) but so you don't get seriously injured(2 1/2 inch talons and beak @ 150 miles per hour sound fun?)

Thanks,

The Bird

This weekend we went up to West Rosebud intending to check out the Spillway when my buddy spotted some ice across the way, just left (east) of the Power Tower and it looked good so the next day we checked it out. We went up two falls, a lower one at WI2 and the upper at WI3+. The lower one, which we called 'Anticipation', is two short falls with some snow in between. It looked as if earlier in the season they would be taller, but it was deep deep snow at the base. From the bottom of Anticipation we stretched a full rope length pitch to the couloir above.

For the Martin Luther King Day, Melanie and myself aimed to climb around the Mystic Lake area. But after 20 min. on the trail, we saw an ice fall on the south face of the canyon. We broke the trail for only 150 yards and climb this short ice fall (~15m, WI3).

Hello - I am a Canadian that is heading down to the Eureka area.  Is there any worthwhile ice climbs around there?

Thanks!!
Sue