Glacier Archives

Hmm, for anyone on the search for ice, Glacier Park is indeed the tresure chest. At least up high, last weekend I was up high and saw a good deal, and I would venture a guess and say Six Pack is in along with the climbs on Burecrat Buttress. Get out and climb, the travel conditions right now are top notch, climbing in the park right now is where it's at. This weekend I'll be up there, and I'll be stoked to see anyone else out exploring, so come one come all and climb some super rad longer climbs, with top notch conditions for climbing.

So is Sutton Falls, and it is totally cauliflowered at the bottom.

It's a far stretch from glacier, but the road side climbs are in.

It's been real cold, anyone getting out and hitting the ice?

First, a caveat - I use web forums like and including montana ice to monitor or check climbing conditions regularly. So I am no luddite. But I a forum on conditions for Glacier? What a shame. What a damn shame. Climbing in Da Park is wilderness climbing. It's about uncertainty, about not knowing whether something is in and "sick" but taking your best guess and going anyway. And getting skunked. Or not. It's about climbing without a donkey trail to the base and without being able to hook pick holes or steps from the last party.

Spent a killer day above Snyder Lake Yesterday, climbed No Fires, and everything up there looks downright spectacular right now. Warm temps were melting the ice slowly but it made for comfortable yet soggy climbing. Trail in was well packed out to lake, and we just post-holed up to the climbs without snowshoes or skis, not to bad! The climbs on Edwards are plain SICK looking.

Walked up to Avalanche Lake today to see what was in and do some climbing on the Pig. The pig was good, the ice was a bit rotten, but as always super fat and impresive. Monument was possibly in but looked thinner than most years at this time. Things on the moonshine wall are forming nicley and staggering corpse looked climable. A fair bit of snow up high, a size 3 slide recently released from below the little matterhorn. As long as we get some cold temps, it'll be sweet soon. Sweet!!

In search of ice today, we ended up finding lots of water running down rock. First we walked up to the north (left) gulley on Mount Brown, which still had a good deal of water pouring onto a bit of old rotten ice-not in yet. Driving toward Avalanche we got a glimpse of how the climbs on Cannon looked, running water and a bit of thin ice. Most likely will need a handfull of cold days still. Continuing to Essex we walked into Bushmen falls, and found ice! Thin, wet, and nonexistant protection. We TR'd from top anchor for the afternoon and were loving it. -Good luck & enjoy