Madison, Gallatin, Absaroka Archives

Dan Oldenberg and myself headed to Tom Miner Basin and Ramshorn Peak in search of some ice to climb, specifically the Dry Creek drainage. I thought the area might have some potential when I saw it in Sept. hunting. I went back in Oct. only to find a few patches of ice but it looked promising later in the season. Wednesday, we left the Tom Miner Campground trail head at 8am and hiked the trail towards Buffalo Horn Pass until it intersected Dry Creek. We then bush wacked up the frozen creek until we encountered the first ice bulge at about the 8000 foot level.

Whether it?s WI3 or WI6, when you tie into the rope and finish a pitch 200ft later it usually means you've just completed a great pitch of ice climbing. Green gully is one such pitch and Saturday provided a great day of ice climbing for the Pine Creek area. Conditions are quickly growing with the recent cold temps, still a little thin at the top requiring some mixed climbing but plenty of solid screw placements are found lower on the route. Stubbies and a small selection of thin rock protection could be useful. With $1000.00 going to participants of the open class competition next Sat.

Headed up to Mission Creek on Saturday. Das Ist Eis and the adjacent routes are coming in but lots of water and thin ice (have pictures will try to post at some point). We ended up going up to Emerald, which Dan led. Emerald was thin down low but the upper headwall was great ice. Sweet climb in an outstanding position! Saphire and Anorexia looked very thin with rock sections between ice. The approach gully was fine that day but we left to freezing rain so watch avy danger with the up coming snow.

Garrett, Brenon, and I climbed the Lowe Route yesterday. We had hoped to get on the new line right of the Earl-Trimble but another party was already at the base when we reached it. It looked like the route had been climbed at least the day before since there were obvious pick marks in the ice. I wonder though if it hadn't been climbed in previous years esp. since it easily could have been mistaken for the Earl-Trimble. It does look like a great line (check out the pic below). We found the ice on the Lowe Route to be in excellent condition. The WI5 pillar was in perfect shape.

Yesterday my buddies Matt, Mike and I went out to spy on the Sphinx. We had the best intentions of climbing it, leaving Missoula at 4 am, but it didn't work out. First we got lost because we had bad directions from a rancher and a hunter and unreliable approach beta from other climbers. Then there was no mention of the 5 or so creek crossings we had to do and that slowed me down especially since I fell in practically every time. Regardless, I thought you guys might like to see a few photos of our expedition.

Sunday was quite the day. Having just read Mr. Apple's account, their retreat is not surpising. The only thing which kept Cameron and myslef trudging forward was the severe itch to swing ice tools and the partnering of Peter Ramos and Andy Knob. Once on the long traverse the snow seemed a bit more settled than that of Saturday's conditions with no natural movement anywhere and no whoomping at all. We were wading up our chests for most of the way with everyone taking turns in the lead.

Chris Hamilton and I climbed three mixed pitches in the gash yesterday. lot's of ice, but poor bonding still. A huge block has fallen off the second pitch and changed the character of the climbing significantly (bring a 3.5/4 camalot and a love for choss). Most of all, pay carefull attention to the snowpack on approach; it was pretty borderline yesterday and could turn bad fast with any sort of wind event...hope for warm temps to bake that shit in and fatten up the pitches.

We went to the Sphinx on Saturday in full winter conditions. There was a weak layer about 3-4 inches down and we released the miniature slabs all the way across the traverse. The Lowe route was in, Pat and I climbed the crux pillar though it was a bit thin and hollow sounding. Snow was mid thigh to chest deep between pitches. Ty and Casey may have put up a new route just to the right not knowing it????? All the same they found 3 pitches of good to thin ice and a rocky top out. Now is the time...get it while it is good.

Drove up from driggs to climb at the beehive yesterday. Pretty nice. Kind of a long drive for short routes, but beautiful area. All in moderation was in good condition- pleasant climbing, and an enjoyable outing although I must admit I thought it might be a bit longer and more sustained, kind of a one-move wonder.

Jesse Berwald and I climbed All in Moderation on April 7th. We found beautiful fat and juicy conditions! The corner was always choked with some form of climbable ice be it wet water ice or slushy aline type ice. Very doable and short, but wet, rock crux with good gear and then more cruiser ice and snowfields above! We did it in two pitches with easy simulclimbing to reach the summit. All in all a very excellent, relaxed route on good rock and ice. Highly recomended!