G1 Ice Conditions

Submitted by Ty on Tue, 11/07/2006 - 16:22
The conditions at G1 were warm with large part of the ice gone from Sunday. [img]http://www.gourp.com/Exports/ab.jpg[/img][/img]

G2 was partially in. Enough to set up a top rope and play around. Started to melt out towards mid day on the 11/7

We hiked up to G2 and climbed that. It was a fun time had by all although the conditions were not to awesome.

Hmm... three young men in their skivies standing in a shower of very cold water. Are they: a) displaying their virility to prospective mates (the biological answer) b) bored with the conditions (the pyschological answer) c) making a statement regarding globalwarming (the scientific answer) d) testing the water proof-ness of their boots (the technical answer) e) qualifying their ascent to make it unique (for the naked and near naked ascent catagories as compiled by the International Commision on Displaying Insufficient Clothing ~ ICDIC) Could this be a post for the "spray" section as flying water droplets in a technical sense are not ice? Survey says......

Probably a bit of all of the above :lol: :lol: . On a unrelated side note G1 still really wasn't in as of yesterday. Hopefully the cooler temperatures will bring it in by next weekend :roll: .

G1 conditions Sunday were very wet, but forming well considering there was almost nothing there Wednessday night. Speeking of G1, does anyone have any information as to why those two trees at the top, just left of center, were cut? I just rapped off one the weekend before, went back Sunday, and they were gone! :?: Should I have setup that new rap station on a tree close by? Or will that one soon be gone too?

We noticed that as well. Was it out of spite? There was a peace sign carved into one of the trees...and from the looks of the cross-section it wasn't rotten at all... Had to get creative with our anchors.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Here is is: I cut the dead snags off of the top of the cliff. Three were standing dead - with slings on them. They had the density of styrofoam with dead roots and all. Given that the trees in Hyalite have shallow roots and are susceptible to blow downs and the Genesis area is the most popluar venue for ice climbs I took the initiative to make it safer. My pardner, Alan Oram, and I also cleared the blow downs on the trail to the top. We discussed which trees looked unsound and cleared out the dead and dangerous stuff. [i]No spite, no anger [/i]and as the carving suggests, in peace. Given the fact that the the crag is above a clear cut, is diverted water and is a top rope venue making it a safer playground trumps, in my opinion, the ethical call. In Valdez, AK and in Norway people have fallen to their deaths rapping off of trees that had been "trade stations" with in the past decade. It was only a matter of time before those trees toppled off. I don't want to get hurt, nor do I want to see anyone in our community get hurt. Take longer slings or an older rope to rig your top rope stations. There are plenty of sound trees above allowing for the ability to rig just about any angle. No harm - just community service.

Well as long as someone made a call on the anchors and acted accordingly. Didn't know if it was folks against ice climbers climbing in that area. Just have to figure out how to string up a new SRENE anchor. Thanks for clearing the tree on the way up to G2, and I'm assuming you guys are the one who cleared the trees on the way to twin. I'd rather not see tree anchors like the one at g2...the one sitting at the base of the climb.

Conrad ~ Thanks for taking care of that stump, it was an accident waiting to happen. In the wake of Todd Skinner's death, however, I would hesitate to recommend using anything old - especially to construct anchors. At whatever cents a foot, one can purchase a bomber 11mm static line - plus it will not have as much rubbing movement as a dynamic rope. Et
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