Narcolepsy

Submitted by jberwald on Wed, 12/06/2006 - 20:59
Climbed Narcolepsy with Ted Wood yesterday. Good spindrift and brittle ice made for a fun (albeit slightly cold) time out. Lovely climb! Doesn't seem like it'll replenish (until spring and warmer temps get some flow going again?). Took 1hr 20min to the base (on someone else's bootpack, thanks!). Passed Lurking Smear on the way, which is now thin ice at the bottom, not the 40 ft of rock climbed in the early season. That looked like a fun climb as well! -J Lurking Smear & Narcolepsy: [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Hyalite-12-5-06-004.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Hyalite-12-5-06-009.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Hyalite-12-5-06-011.jpg[/img]

I had the pleasure of climing with Ben W and master photo man Joe Irons today! After hiking over from the big sleep, we climbed the short 4-ish pillar under narcolepsy main pitch, this can be seen pictured above. Awesome!! The sun was baking narcolepsy from 9-12, very jucy. Just before ben got to the intermediate anchor about 50 feet up narcolepsy, a slide scoured the gully. Luckily he was unscathed. Joe got some good pics of this! We decided to rappel from this point...the rest of the climb looked good! The ice was verrrry sticky! There are two other potential pithces under the little pillar, the first is thin but in, the second isnt ready. Both can be hiked around. We saw a bolt and a pin off to the right of narcolepsy along with a blue sling a ways up. The wall was wet but no ice. What is this??? Fact or flander is HUGE with ice damn near touching down to the base of the cliff band! There is also something narrow coming in to the left of Fact. Code Red and Red Dog looked pretty enticing. Watch out for slides in this warm weather!!!!! I think bobo like slid out also. Neil Neil

The bolts off to the right of Narcolepsey are for a rock climb put up (bolted on lead) by Maurice Horn and Nate Opp this past summer. It is reportedly fun, 5.9 climbing on solid cobbles. There is also another climb between Lurking Smear and Narco, also rumored to be quite nice and about the same grade. PS Aaron Thrasher is an A-hole

Had an exciting day out with Neal and Ben on 12-7-06. We climbed the first pillar below the original route WI4, then the pitch in the photos. Ben Wilkenson enjoying Narcolepsy [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/narcolepsey4.jpg[/img] Ben not enjoying Narcolepsy :shock: :twisted: :cry: [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/narcolepsey1.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/benpumbeled2.jpg[/img] An awesome day out with two great people. Joe Irons

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Fri, 12/22/2006 - 11:31

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Narcolepsy is still in great shape. If you haven't already done so, get out there and do this route. This is a "must do" since it rarely forms. The route just left, Lurking Smear, has a poorly attached sheet of ice at the bottom, but otherwise looks good. Thanks to everyone who attended the Travel Plan meeting last night. -Tom Kalakay [b]The great Steve Mock on Narcolepsy[/b] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Narcolepsy.jpg[/img]
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