Hyalite Archives

We reestablished the road to the trail head this morning. It wasn't bad with chains (it took 2 hours). We were followed by one other truck. There were only two trucks, including ours, at the trailhead. However, on our way out, once we passed the reservoir, it was a circus. The drive out was more difficult than the drive up due to the rut-fest created by all of the ill-equiped senior sightseers in their monstorous diesel trucks and jean jackets. The drive is do-able, but take chains and shovels. It might be best to leave the subarus at home for a bit. Happy Trails

The Matrix was in excellent shape this morning. Hit it up soon as there's a trail busted and the lower step has a good thin pillar to make it feasible on ice all the way. Ramos and I were able to traverse easily to the top of Feeding the Cat and rap with 1 rope. The Cat looked stellar, a little thin up top. Cave and Gully is thin but in. Crypt Orchid was more snow than ice. Mummy II was lean and unappealing in the middle, but the bottom and top looked to be good wet ice. Scepter was almost connected and very wet. Fat Chance was not looking fat, pro looked to be scarce.

Nick Bilton and I climbed Dribbles and Responsable F.M. on Sunday. The weather was really warm so we found the first route wet and with tricky protection, specially in the middle part, but fun to climb under blue skyes. After the highly recommended traverse aproach to RFM, we found great ice, not too rainy and good pro, just a couple of big rocks coming from above...Great day for us!

Nate Opp and I ventured up to Responsible Family Man on Monday. The conditions were ideal - warm sunny weather and very sticky ice. Compared to previous years, the ice is in quite thick. From the upper belay we sighted an alpha mountain goat on the terrace between RFM and Winter Dance. This fellow was very strong and a real treat to see. If I was a goat and I wanted to nibble lichen, the warm scree slopes would be the pefect location.

Slight of Hand was in this Saturday, though very thin at the topout. The climbs across the canyon, Comet Alley and the Asteroid, were looking good and fat, and the road getting back there isn't bad either. Cheers, Pete Thompson

11 19 05 Thrasher, Apple and I did the annual ascent of Zack Attack. It was really fun. What little ice there is was fat. Well, at least fat compared to the other times I have done it. Fun!

Responsible Family man is in. Mr. Palister climbed it with style after hiking up to it two days in a row. Ramos forgot his harness the first day. There is now a nice boot pack, enjoy. D

Went poking around Hyalite on Sunday. Hangover is thin and deteriorating a little but easy enough with decent short screws. The top half into the trees is hardly worth doing. Thankfully, there was little traffic on G1. It's got potential to be super but right now won't survive a ton of hacking. Black Magic looks good to go while both the Good Looking One and Shores of Pluto are making the effort. From the sliver of ice poking out of the corner, Thrill is Gone appears to be good too, although I'm sure it's soaked by early afternoon.

Saw, more cars today in the parking lot then I have this year so thats good. Went back with trevor and did long walk to fredom and once in a blue moon. The monkley ass wall looked in as did the climbs below it. Dribbles took a hard shot today when we left there was a huge hole in it. Everything else looked to be doing well. I highly recomend heading out to the once in a blue moon area now while our boot pack it still ther cause the slog is a bitch. Toodles, Bryan Schmitz

Chris and I went into Flanders Sarurday and did Champagne and Champagne Slot. Both are in fine condition. Bobo Like looks in. A group got up Killer Piller, despite it not touching down. A Little pull-up action if you want to get after it. Unlike most years, the parking area for Flanders is not accesible. There are two spots you can park that are just off the road, but don't try it without 4-wheel and good tires. Alternatively park at Palisade or Emerald trail-heads. Just a reminder, it can be useful to have a shovel. Have fun. cheers, HJ