Hyalite Archives

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Archives from past seasons.

Scepter, Mummy 2 and Avy

Submitted by climberdancer on Sun, 03/13/2005 - 00:53
So 5 of us (2 who knew the area and 3 new to MT ice) climbed Scepter and Mummy2. Scepter is going at 4+/5- and very pegged out. The lower section is vertical or not quite while the upper half is about 80 degrees or less. A very fun lead. Ice was fairly soft. Mummy 2 seemd to be on par for the grade (wi3 - wi4) and a bit brittle. Knocked a fairly large sized peice onto my head. :) The Hyalite trailhead got about 8" of powder and the parking lot was empty. Perhaps ya'll were skiing? However, with the snow falling all day, we experienced 3 powder slides.

Livingston Area

Submitted by JoJo on Fri, 03/11/2005 - 08:17
Jim, You might add another thread for the Livingston area. It's not ALL about Hyalite ya know. :wink: Anyone been up Mission Creek? If things are still in, it is probably pretty good. If Das Ist Eis is in, it would be worth the extra effort to ski up-valley to look for the others around the corner. How about Deer Creek? Is the snow any good for skiing up?

its Hot!

Submitted by bandito on Mon, 03/07/2005 - 11:01
went on up to the ol' sceptor the other day with a guy that just got back from south america. we found superb warm weather conditions and wonderful climbing. once the sun came around the bend, belaying was quite a treat. besides the wonderful sticks, hooks, and soft ice, climbing in anything more that a t-shirt was practically asphixiating. for a sun baked time, try the sceptor after about noon. and bring some tights or something... ben nobel

"Magic Carpet Ride" a new route

Submitted by whit magro on Tue, 03/01/2005 - 22:41
On Feb. 25, 2005 Pete Tapley and I went for a day in good old Hyalite Canyon. We started out on the ever so plesant "Magically Delicious". What next? Anyone who has climbed on the unnamed wall has probably seen this thing. If you look on page 99 in "Winter Dance" you can see a little blob of ice on the top of the cliff just right of the "Magically Delicious" line. That's it! She climbs way better than she looks, as do most things in Hyalite. Start in the brownish clean(compared to the other options) corner and work up and right over bulge.

Getting into Hyalite Canyon

Submitted by daveyk on Tue, 02/22/2005 - 15:31
I will be out in Hyalite Canyon climbing for 4 days in March. I rented the Window Rock Cabin while I was there and was wondering if renting a snowmobile would be worth it or if we should attempt to drive our Subaru up the road. I am willing to rent a snowmobile if I can end up getting a whole bunch more climbing in, since I would rather not waste half of my trip skiing around in circles. If you do recommend renting a snowmobile, who would you reccomend renting it from? Any route recomendations from the 3-5+ categories that are close to the cabin would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Dave

Silken slot

Submitted by jleppi on Mon, 02/14/2005 - 11:20
Climbed silken slot with Sam Saturday and found some classic mixed climbing. The first pitch was steller with chimney moves and arm bars followed by some low angle ice. Gear that would be useful would be small tcus, knife blades and stoppers. The ice on the 2nd pitch of climbing was in in good shape, with a intresting Hyalite slab move to the belay ledge. A ice specter would be useful. The third pitch did not have any ice. cheers

Cleo's and Slot Corner

Submitted by thejman on Sun, 02/13/2005 - 12:59
Headed up to Cleo's in the morning with Chris Awe. Cleo's was in great shape!! Although rather sunbaked, it made for fine sticks and glorious climbing. Afterward we ventured accross the valley and climbed slot corner. The first pitch nearly detached but the "slot corner" was aweasome. It too had suffered from the intense sunlight but made for wicked sticks. Curtains and Land of the Lost also looked great! Anywho, Saturday was a great day in the Canyon and I imagine today is shaping up to be another great one. cheers, Josh Gage

Responsible Family Man

Submitted by MARK ROGERS on Sun, 02/13/2005 - 09:36
Ventured up to Responsible Family Man with Greg Caracciolo on Thurs. 2/10. We did the Dribbles approach as per the guides suggestion. It's in great shape currently. I know I should feel guilty about enjoying the casual hike up there in Feb, what with the lack of snow and all; but hey, I come from a backround of swimming thru the stuff to ice climb in the Sierras. Anyway, RFM was in really nice shape. I loved the traverse in with getting to pound knifeblades and all. It didn't hurt that the day was an absolute 10 as far as the weather goes either.