Hyalite Archives

Looking from the Unnamed Wall, the routes right of Mummy II (Crypt Orchid, Matrix, Cave & Gully, Feeding the Cat) look as good as they get. The Matrix has formed on the bottom and is thin on the top. Looks hard but is one of the best single pitches in Hyalite. The others are much easier and very worthy. Have fun. JoJo

Hi All! I have gotten a few verbal reports about the ice conditions this evening, so I figured I would prime everyone. Keep in mind that the Northern Lights Ice festival will be going on, so the popular, easier climbs will be well-occupied. For example, G1, G2 and Twin Falls ( NLTC - where will you be? ) Hangover and Greensleeves - Pretty good, perhaps not 22cm screw material, but plenty good to climb. Other scrappy stuff in the Genesis area may be in. G2 is good. Mummy 2- good Mummy 4 - Hard, but climbable ascent this year. Take rock gear.

Here's some eye candy from Saturday. Still figuring out this ice climbing thing, myself, but had some fun. Hopefully the photos show up. [img]http://www.dtm-websolutions.com/boatbuild/MiscPhotos/bigone_112704_sm.j…] The Fat One on the left side of the Amphetheatre Wall still a little skinney.

[img]http://www.dotphoto.com/SAN1/16/96/58/i169658EC-3B59-4F10-8298-2973670A…] LocoDuck towards the top of G2 on 11/23 Photo by Pete Vastyan [img]http://www.dotphoto.com/SAN1/76/92/04/i76920402-77CF-4B13-8285-5ECA7897…] MSU student solo on lower portion of G2 Photo by Pete Vastyan [img]http://www.dotphoto.com/SAN1/5D/58/87/i5D5887FF-4642-4B3A-93AD-20BF4D3A…] Me(Pete Vastyan) on G2 11/23 Photo by Eric Lamanna

Climbed Mummy II today. It's still a little thin, but safe and exciting. My partner who rapped the pitch and was supposed to get all the gear, left one of my new 16cm express screws hanging there with a sling and two biners swaying in the breeze...Anyway, if someone wants to earn some good karma and 20 bucks, please drop the screw & gear off at the front counter at Northern Lights. Thanks and good climbing. Mark Rogers

[quote="LocoDuck"]The right side of G1 is in pretty well, the rest of it is a safe top-rope, a little thin for pro.... There were tons of people on it this weekend. (19th/20th)[/quote]translates to "people beat the shit out of the flow this weekend and everything that was formed was nonexistent by late sunday morning". It would be nice if people (myself included) would chill out for a while and let popular flows like this thicken. There's plenty of other stuff that's in if you're willing to poke around. But it should be good later this week if the weather obeys the forecast...

Up at Comet alley on Friday (11/26); Asteroid's first pitch is in. A brittle aerated layer on top makes it somewhat spicy, but not too bad. Comet is thin up top, fat on the bottom and completely touching down. Pro looked difficult to nonexistent on the upper section. The slog up that gully was heinous. We dug a monster trench to the ice, but I'll bet it's filled in now. Have fun if you're headed out there.

Climbed sleeping giant today in rather exciting conditions. Top is pretty thin - no places for pro on the upper half - quite a bit of rotten ice throughout. We pretty much did a figure 8 trying to find the bloody climb, so don't follow our tracks. The name is half right - the climb was sleeping, however it is not a giant. Off belay....

looks like it snowed and will be snowin'...but sometimes (almost always) forecasts are misleading. How do y'all think avy conditions are in the mtns right now round bozeman?

On Sunday I parked at the Grotto Falls parking lot. I have heard this is the common parking lot for the genesis one and many other hyalite classics. Looking at a map of hyalite revealed many falls which were not in the guidebook. Names such as grotto falls, arch falls and champagne falls were on the map but not in the book. I set off at 700am intent to maybe getting a FA. I arrived to grotto falls at 815am after one fall on the trail (a little icy, maybe some salt would help the trail conditions) :lol: . Grotto falls was running with a lot of water. I dont think its in yet.