Hyalite Archives

Climbed elevator shaft today. It is in great shape, but still thin in a few spots. We also walked by the fat one that is in but thin throughout and the thrill is gone has thin ice up high. The ice is looking good. Cheers, Jason

Climbed Bobo Like today with George Ortiz. Fat little pillar on first pitch. Really wet second pitch. Last pitch is in FAT. Didn't have time to climb it, but looked like no mixed and all ice, expect maybe last 20 feet. Climbs across the way: Fact or Flanders?, Flanders Field, etc look in. Well, the left hand yellow line (don't know which it is) didn't seem to have a complete second pitch. Yellow climb oozing down east side of the Big Sleep buttress: What is it?! I Couldn't see if it goes all the way to the ground, but it would be long if it does.

On Thanksgiving I went up to the climbs below winter dance area and found great condidtions. Curtains, slot corner and Dialectric Breakdown were all in and forming up great. My partner, Ashley, and I climbed a mixed route 20ft lookers left of Dialectric Breakdown and had quite a enjoyable time. Not sure what the route is called as it is not listed in the guide book Winter Dance but it is worth climbing again. Has anyone climbed this before?

Climbed the mummy cooler area yesterday. Found great conditions on the matrix and feeding the cat. Mummy two is getting beat out in the top skinny step. Climbed the Scepter and the top was really wet on the left side, going up the right was pretty good. [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/scepterbryan.JPG[/img] Bottom of the spcepter Cheers, Bryan

Yesterday was the finest day I've had all season with exception to that other day when I went to... Oh wait, never mind. My long time partner, Casey Grom and I went into Flanders with the intention of climbing whatever looked good which, sent us up, The Big Sleep, Killer Piller, the small two pitch climb inbetween those two and Champage Sherbert. Everyting was in great shape. I would bet my partner's right arm that The Big Sleep could be considered the finest climb either Hylite or Flanders has to offer.

While everyone was off to higher ground I had the best experience of my life without climbing higher then 5 feet. The family and I went for a walk to the corner climbs yesterday to introduce my 10 yr old son to the world of ice. I was going to set up a TR for him but he was having trouble swinging the tools so, to be safe I decided against it. After we saw Adam and Doug come down from their shower on upper mummy and with some additional coaching Nate?s swing got better (and safer), so I spotted him while he traversed back and forth across the bottom of Fat Chance.

I don't think I've ever heard of someone attempting to climb ice with an umbrella but today I wish I'd been the first. Doug Chabot and myself went to the upper mummy via two fine pitches of ice, no rock gear needed for three, and found ourselves at the base of what appeared to be a steep and enjoyable looking pitch. Little did we know the bladder of Mr. Mummy was overflowing from a hard week end of drinking and the pissing we ascended into was horrendous. The climb is worth doing in a crab fishing slicker or tight laytex suit. Please get pictures. [/list]

Went out with Jeff yesterday and enjoyed some nice climbing on Champagne Sherbert. Champagne is IN (but quite thin on the top slab--10 cm stubby bottomed out after 5 cm) From the trail/top of Champagne: Big Sleep is IN (bigger than the photos in WD) Bobo Like is IN (fairly fat looking first pitch, for the pencil that it is) Killer Pillar is IN Don't think much is going on with the upper routes yet (Flanders Field, Fact or Flander). Though with I didn't look too hard. No photos. (A beer for anyone who can find my camera in my pigsty of a home.) -Jesse

The two petes (tapley and thompson) and I made our way up the mummy's on saturday. Found Mummy 3 in all ice conditions no need for the rock gear that we brought up there. But the pitch was long and sickty and just great overall. Mummy 4 was like a shower and I found it difficult maybe in the WI 5+/6-. There is an overhang 20 of so feet off the ground that is managable. Bring some longer screws because the ice is pretty slushy. I would imagine mummy 4 to keep getting bigger with the amount of water that was coming down yesterday.

Saturday, the 18th, crack of noon start. Adrien and I headed up to climb Twin Falls, but couldn't resist the temptation of Cleopatra. She is so beautiful in her plump juicy ways. We had but one rope, so there are v-threads set up to accomodate. The lowest thread is below the belay cave in the slab area. enjoy the power of penetration, it's good