Hyalite Archives

Friday the 17th Adrien and I climbed G-1 and on to through for more. By the looks of the sling, it hadn't been climbed in a while, but we freshened it up a bit, so please have at it. Good climbing, no photos.

Kyler Pallister and I were lucky enough to [i]find smear today gone tomorrow[/i] with ice on it this morning. Enough ice in fact that the only bolt we could find was at the belay. The climbing was incredible with good hooking and abundant blobs for the feet. The protection however was interesting, a few threads and a mid sized beak would have at least held body weight. The rappel sling we found at top tied together with a single fisherman and girth hitched to a baby sappling that must have been even more of a baby a decade ago pretty much sums it up though.

Some things are best left to the luck of odds. Typically I would play by the rules of the hunt, those that haven?t had the opportunity to lead the route would get the first go at putting up the rope. In this case first tracks on such a classic left Adam Knoff calling Black Diamond and myself claiming title to the plastic lettering, ?do not load? as I flipped the carabineer into the air. I couldn?t just give away first tracks, not today, the biner landed, ?Do Not Load" faced the sky and it was my lead. I guess the Luck of the Magic was on my side.

Drove in on monday during that wind storm and there was a tree down on the road past the reservoir. If anyone has gone in today, let me know if the forest service has moved it yet. I called them first thing this morning. Thanks, Nicole

This is were I took my tools for a walk on friday. Went to go look at and try an climb the killer pillar. However it was about half way from touching down. The big sleep looked a lot in but that was from afar and I cannot attest to the ice quality. Went to Champange sherbet and that thing was a sloppy wet dripping mess. Not really climbable. On a better note I was able to drive my ford escort all the way to the east fork parking lot and I added another log to the stream crossing to make it easier. Cheers. Bryan

Looking higher for hopefully colder conditions we climbed Twin Falls (Right) today. Protection on the top third is not very good because the ice is too thin, soft, and looks like popcorn. Otherwise the climbing is good and mostly dry because most of the the water is flowing under the ice (there are a few open holes). Twin left may be better. Cleo's is patchy and very wet. [/img]

Let's bring back these conditions. Kris Erickson and Tim Seipel respectively on their pitches [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/MI.166.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/MI.178.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/MI.186.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/MI.200.jpg[/img]

G2 is in but warm in the afternoon. G1 is still slushy but MIGHT be climbable tomorrow. Maybe. We shall see. If go out to g2 go early in order to get good conditions.

As you could guess most of the climbs looked out of condition. we hiked up to twin on election day and were bombed by ice as soon as we got near the climb by cleo's and twin. some were on G2 toproping, but everything else looked bad. Lets all do a cold snap dance!

We're planning on coming over from eastern washington this weekend because we planned the trip before the recent weather change. In your expert opinions, would there be any climbable ice left? Twin falls maybe? Anything hidden in a protected corner of the canyon perhaps? chris