Hyalite Archives

These photos were taken Friday Nov 3. [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/MI.128copy.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/MI.129copy.jpg[/img]

The conditions at G1 were warm with large part of the ice gone from Sunday. [img]http://www.gourp.com/Exports/ab.jpg[/img][/img]

Trevor, Neal, Spencer and I climbed Magically Delicious in great conditions on Thursday. Then on Saturday, Brian, Neal, Dave and I climbed Dielectric Breakdown and Overeasy, both in great shape. Champange Sherbert was in as of Sunday (no photo) sorry I was shooting slide film.

Had a great time climbing the classic Zack Attack yesterday with Ross Lynn and Tim Seipel. Conditions were more iced than previous years but more ice created better climbing. Considering it's elevation and the high temps we've been experiencing lately it may be one of a few routes left standing.

Completed a long new route on the sizeable face immediately right of Comet Alley today with Pete Thompson. The route is invisible from the parking lot, and gradually comes into view up the trail, with the top pitches being visible before the bottom ones come into view at the meadow about 15 minutes up the trail. Approach as for Comet/Asteroid, and cut right on a large ramping ledge about 100' up, after entering the tight couloir of the Alley. The route starts approx. 200' out on this ledge. The first pitch ascends a tight slot with a cruxy lower pillar.

Went to Hyalite on Friday and been talking to a few people. Lots of people are concerned with the warmer weather so for whatever it is worth, here is my take on what's in and not in: G1 is getting climbed but wet and slushy in places with the steeper pillars a little behind where they usually are. G2, Hangover and Through Four More all looked good. Zach Attack looks like THE harder route to do in the main fork right now. The Scepter is a free-hanging dagger. Mummy II looks climbable with spotty ice.

On wednsday Thadeus and I went looking for narcolepsy. It was a little too wet so we climbed something 100 feet to the left. I think it's called lurking smear. Comparable to black magic the crux was a 60 foot 5.10+ rock section at the bottom on good conglomerate with tricky stopper placements. Once past the lower rock the ice on the uppper half was exciting, thin and well bonded. A short second pitch of moderate ice leads to the top of the cliff and a rappel tree. On thursday Kyler and I returned and climbed an aesthetic iced up chimney on the same cliff band.

Did anyone go up there last weekend? what else is in now? How's the road (suitable for a subaru)?

Climbed the left side of twin yesterday, it was fair with little to no pro. The right side was still dropping bombs and running wet. It was snowing and socked in so hard to see across the vally, but cleos and solstice were starting to form, more ice than I thought there would be.A special thanks goes out to the two parties that broke trail through 12 to14 inches of snow and then bailed ..The climb was worth th hike and will be in better soon enough.

Anyone gone up to check out if the ice is in? I might head up this afternoon...