Genesis Area

This is the first climb in the canyon, and is easy to miss since it is only visible through the trees for a short section 0.3 miles prior to the parking lot. Sleeping Giant is seen as a short, yet steep, curtain of ice in a major snow gully. Although shorter, it is generally harder than G2 or Mummy 2. Overall, it is a good route and deserves to be climbed more often than it appears to be.

Named for the frequent state of ice climbers throughout the ages, Hang Over is deservedly one of the canyon’s most popular climbs. It is the obvious, often-green, flow of ice coming out of the gully on the left side of the rock buttress left of G2.

On any given day, you might see some of the best and most experienced ice climbers anywhere right along side college kids out for the first time ever. Despite the occasional crowds, the G1 atmosphere remains pleasantly upbeat and encouraging. Historically, Genesis I is only the left side flow. Since the early 1990’s, not without some controversy, a small portion of the main flow has been diverted over the steep cliff band to the right. The subsequent amount of ice varies from year to year, depending on the cold patterns in early season.

Location: As you walk left along the base of the G1 Wall there are a series of hummocks you must walk up and down. Clump Tree is found on top of the second hummock about 100 yards from G1. It is recognizable by the crissed-crossed, “clump” of trees at the top. Although short, it is recommended.

Route: Low-angled, yet sometimes thin, ice leads to a group of trees and roots. Set up an anchor on the strongest-looking wood or carry on over the top into the forest above.

Descent: Rappel from trees.

As mentioned above, this climb bears no relationship to Upper Green Sleeves. It is another fine pitch that makes a nice approach for Hang Over or in combination with the rest of the G1 Wall routes.

Location: This pitch is another 50 yards left of Clump Tree at the bottom of a small hummock near the end of the G1 Wall. | Route: Occasionally thin ice leads into the trees.

Descent: A 30 m rappel from trees or walk off left.

Location: As you walk left along the base of the G1 Wall there are a series of hummocks you must walk up and down. Clump Tree is found on top of the second hummock about 100 yards from G1. It is recognizable by the crissed-crossed, “clump” of trees at the top. Although short, it is recommended.

Route: Low-angled, yet sometimes thin, ice leads to a group of trees and roots. Set up an anchor on the strongest-looking wood or carry on over the top into the forest above.

Descent: Rappel from trees.

Genesis I or G2, is a great route and many6 climbers first full-pitch lead. It faces the car when driving up the road and is easily visible from the parking lot. Together with G1, this classic was among the earliest "technical waterfall ice climbs in the country.

Approach: climb up from one of the G1 routes and slog in or next to the gully above.

Route:

Descent:

Just left of G2 is an obvious, yet short, icicle pouring from a tight gully over the left side of a big cave. When thin, dry-tooling is required to reach the dagger. Or, ice forms in the back making it a “mostly-ice” route with interesting transitions from one flow to the next. When left alone, it often forms completely offering good ice and good gear. If early season traffic increases, it will likely experience difficulty in forming well.

The complex rock walls and gullies between G2 and Hang Over contain a variety of intriguing icicles and flows. Aside from a few icicles and portions of routes, most of the ice is not visible until you are right on it. In a good year, there are no less than a dozen icicles just begging the touch of an ice ax (after considerable dry-tool jiggery). In an average to poor year, you might not see anything worth climbing. Through Four More is the most frequently formed route in the area.